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Hello from South Wales

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Chris152 View Post
    Hopefully a relatively simple question - the Western red cedar sold here (UK) seems expensive when bought as boards but relatively cheap as cladding. Cladding is about 20mm thickness (3/4"?) so will need thicknessing down to use which is fairly easy; while the boards are 1"+ and would need resawing and planing (more difficult) and seems to work our more expensive.
    Is the wood used for cladding likely to be any different to rough sawn boards except in price and initial finish/ is it less good for a surf board? Would you usually buy a thick board and cut thin slices from it on a bandsaw?
    I'm making a couple assumptions here so feel free to correct me if I am wrong. The cladding you mentioned sounds a lot like fencing planks they sell at the big orange and blue stores here in the states. They're cedar of some sort, western red if I remember correctly, and priced at $2-3 a board NOT by the board foot. They're rough cut, usually 5-6" wide, 6' long, and vary between 5/8-7/8" thick (nominally 3/4"). I actually really like to use these cladding/fence planks. That being said, when I did the math it's slightly more expensive per board foot to buy the cladding boards than rough cedar boards here in Hawaii. That may not be the case in South Wales. I prefer to buy the cladding because it's easier. Easier to transport, Easier to store, and easier to work(less tools needed). I have made a full 11' paddle board out of them. If you are careful with your cuts you can rip them in half, resaw them, and plane\thickness them for a deck around 1/4". If you are doing all of that you might as well buy a couple boards, they are in my experience nicer quality.

    As I type all of that I feel slightly like a hypocrite. I use the cladding almost exclusively for my bead and cove rails.


    • #17
      Looks like we're paying a tad more for wr cedar over here! This is the kind of thing I'm looking at
      £7.44 per metre for 14.4 cm (about 5 1/2") widths. I guess I can resaw that to get two strips from each 2m length and plane the sawn face easily enough.
      I can see I need to visit your workshop over in Hawaii to get some ideas on how to proceed. ;-)


      • #18
        Don't make a trip to see my shop. It's more like a overcrowded garage with no doors. Everything important is on wheels and doubles as a table.

        These are the fence planks I was talking about.
        They're pretty cheap, but you have to dig through a big stack to find good ones. If you have the equipment it is cheaper by the board foot to buy from an actual lumber yard. You just have to put more sweat equity into it.


        • #19
          I've found a yard that'll cut wr cedar to 10mm thickness at a decent price, and I can plane that down to 6mm - but it's fresh sawn so I'll need to put in stick and let it dry before using. I'm assuming wood planed to 6mm will dry pretty quickly? Never tried that thin but I know from bowls I've turned that once they get below 10mm they lose their moisture very quickly.

          I think we're going to go ahead and work with the plan Stew posted a link to, but cut a 6" section and one rib out of the middle to make it 7' length. (Great video btw, Stew!) We'll have questions along the way so I might start another thread with the build as we go, if y'all have the patience to follow.
          Thanks, C


          • #20
            Instead of cutting a section out, I would suggest trying to scale it down. Cutting a chunk out can sometimes lead to a wonky transition instead of a nice faired outline.


            • #21
              Agreed. I'm not sure which 6" section you would cut out.

              How would the templates then line up?

              How would the design then flow along the bottom?

              How would the rails then flow?

              I wouldn't do it - I think it'll cause you more challenges cutting a section out.


              • #22
                Having a look round, there does seem to be a lack of designs at 7' - maybe there's a reason for that as well.


                • #23
                  Aha, I see the problem. I was assuming I could fettle (by eye/ with a flexible guide) the ribs either side of the missing rib if necessary and cut the deck accordingly. The rib I'd thought to miss out is marked up here:

                  edit to add - scaling down would be very easy, would that create any problems of its own?

                  Really appreciate your thoughts, thankfully we didn't get started!
                  Last edited by Chris152; 06-13-2019, 06:26 AM.


                  • #24
                    Aside from lack of convenient measuring increments (I do everything in 6" or 8" increments) scaling shouldn't change anything. At least it shouldn't change anything more than cutting a section out. Just make sure you keep the same aspect ratio when you scale. I believe Adobe makes it pretty easy to do.


                    • #25
                      Probably stating the obvious but....... If you scale it down, remember to reduce only the length or you will have a skinnier board too.
                      Kook on a wood board.