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Strip and feather rail with a ply bottom.

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  • #16
    Aaah, gotcha.

    Well I'm reverting back to the hollow Jensen rails again for this third board, just as I did for the first two.

    Having thought it over, I've no reason not to as it works well and eliminates this problem. There is a slight issue of making sure you don't sand through onto the ply bottom still (which I did on my first) but I think it was Brad that suggesting laying a band of masking tape round the ply so when shaping the rails, as soon as you hit the masking tape then stop (which is what I did n my second). When you remove the tape there is a slight lip left but when you glass it the lip disappears.

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    • #17
      Strip and feather is tricky I did the bead and cove thing for a board and came out ok but spent a lot of time doing it. I stopped the deck and bottom 24 mm in from the rail and then bead and coved all the way around got messy around the tail and nose so chopped and blocked them. Malcom schweizer had a nice video showing how he blended the strips. Now days for ease i chop the frames 18mm in and plank it with 3 layers of 6mm by 10mm strips then shape as required. The 10mm gives good coverage so know not going to sand through anywhere.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by matrch; 10-01-2017, 01:33 AM. Reason: Added photo

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      • #18
        you can hide the plywood bottom edge by extending the "primary" strip all the way to the bottom and stopping the bottom deck short of the rail. i did this on my twinfish to hide the endgrain of my bottom planks because they are at a 45* angle to the stringer
        Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

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