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Cove and bead technique for soft rails

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  • Cove and bead technique for soft rails

    Hey Guy's,
    it's been a while since I posted and I'm trying to get back into the groove. I noticed that Tree to Sea is now gone and all my contributions are gone with it. I'd like to share a technique I've come up with and this is the 3rd time using it and feel it's worth sharing again. The original cove and bead technique Rich Blundell came up with had one flaw that I couldn't get past. the bottom rail tended to be on the boxy side. this will help those that desire a board with soft rails all the way around. the 1st picture is how I did my 1st two boards and it naturally inherited a hard bottom rail. Picture 2 is a drawing of the modification made. picture 3 is the actual results. Key is putting a cove in the chine strip and instead of a starter strip with a bead at the top, the bottom also gets a bead.
    Hope this helps.


  • #2
    Like the idea, but I never did bead and cove, because I'm afraid of planing, sanding them to much..., maybe you can post your experiences on this subject after you will have finished the board.
    The best surfer is the one with the biggest smile on his face...


    • #3
      i think you are right on with the adjustment you made. Makes a 50-50 or 60-40 rail much more possible. I’ve been hankering to do another b&c railed board...shaping rails out of cork is stressful!


      • #4
        I remember seeing you post this on T2S. I never tried it myself. When I wanted soft rails I would make a fat chine strip, do the normal B and C, and then sand/shape to the desired rail. When I am lazy, I will just use a large radius round over bit and router on the squared off rail instead of sanding/shaping. Because of the extra meat in the chine strip I do not worry if I end up sanding into it. The router method works really well on longboards.